Australia LS1
Camshaft Installation

Another How To.

Tool required:
Pre-Lube for Camshaft
Good Quality Tools, including
Metric spanner's and Socket's
Screwdriver Set
Middle size Pulley Extractor
A Bolt or Steel about 125mm long
Large tub to catch the Coolant
If not 6 Litre's of Dexcool Coolant
Car Ramp's
New Harmonic Balancer Bolt
Degree Wheel
Dial-indicator Gauge to measure the Lift of the Cam
3 - 6 inch Bolts for Removing/Replacement of Cam
You might need water pump gasket if damage on Removal
You might need Timing Cover gasket if damage on Removal
You might need Harmonic Balancer Seal gasket if damage on Removal

Here you can find all the torque Specification for tightening bolts on the LS1.
LS1 Engine Specification

Get started required at least a half day of sunlight, to perform this with the best available light source, you still
can do it anytime, just found it better than using a lead light.
In the above photo you notice the radiator has been drain and removed, also the car is up on
ramp's with some guard protector in place. This eliminate's back strain, and provide's
a better angle in replace the Camshaft.

Next you notice the Airbox is removed, we also disconnected the Battery as the PCM
computer need to be remove for this installation.

With the Airbox, radiator reservoir, remove you'll notice we are removing the PCM computer to make room
for the Air Conditioning return pipe to be lifted up in the air, as this is attached to the Condenser Unit.
This method saves both time and money in re-gassing.
It can be done by Degassing the refrigerant, but at a cost of $120 upwards for re-gassing.
Don't pollute, by degassing the refrigerant to the atmosphere, take your car to a authorised
Auto Electrician for Decanting of the Refrigerant.

We have remove the Coil pack's and the Rocker Cover's, getting ready to remove the Roller
Rocker's you will notice these are not the standard OEM item's, these beauty's are
Crane Roller Rocker with a ratio of 1.8:1 the OEM are 1.7:1.
The camshaft we are going to use is a Comp Cam"Custom Grind" to suit the lift with these's Rocker's.

Affectionly called "The Plan B Sledgehammer Cam"

You will see the Water pump has been remove, drive belts and etc, getting down to it now.

Take your time removing the Front Condenser Unit as the A/C Unit is fully charged, you need
to help the Condenser Unit by bending the pipe slightly, this help you get it in and out.
When you finish lift the unit up to the desired position out of the way of the front of the engine, best
to tie it up to the bonnet latch, with some rope or cable tie's.
Try not to bump the Condenser Unit while in this position.

Side on, photo shoot of the Condenser Unit well out of the way for the removal of the Camshaft.

Next we need to remove the support bar at the front of the car, this give us move access to
the lower timing cover and provides an easy entry point for the Camshaft.

Removing the Harmonic Balancer require's some care of the Seal so it is not damage while removing the Balancer, also
when removing the Balancer you need to use the original bolt as a center point of pivot, then you run out of leverage,
so a long bolt or steel (125 mm) with a drill center drill in it, to help located the pulley extractor better.

With the Harmonic Balancer remove, next you can remove all the Timing Cover bolts.
Next you notice a couple of bolts are behind some pulley's, if you think it is better to remove pulley's them do so,
you still can remove the cover without moving them, it up to you.

With the Timing cover remove you next need to bring the engine up with Number 1 Cylinder to TDC.
(Top Dead Center)
This can be noticed when both dot's on the timing chain sprocket's are closed to each
other, now you can remove the old camshaft.

Next you need to remove the sprocket for the Cam, remove the three bolts and wiggle the Sprocket off the Cam.
You will notice the LS1 Chevrolet engine has a Single Row Timing Chain Only, if you want to replace with a Roll Master
Double Row Timing Chain, you need to remove the engine as the bracket of the Oil pick up
need to be elongated to accommodate the Double Row Timing chain as the Oil pump has been
packed out and extra 3 mm for clearance for the chain.

Timing Chain Sprocket with the 3 securing bolts removed.

Camshaft Sprocket removed.

For added assurance, we insert Pencil Magnets down where the pushrod are located
you can see the magnet attached to the Lifter is quiet adequate in holding the lifter weight.
We are doing this to prevent any lifter that might fall from the below Retainer.

This is an example of a Retainer that hold 4 lifter's Note:- this doesn't get removed as it's under the heads,
were just showing you what your dealing with.
The purpose of the Retainer is to stop the lifter's from rotating. You have more than likely read somewhere
that the lifter will be retained by the simple spin of the Camshaft.
Well we didn't trust that theory. Hence the Magnets.

This is the Roller Lifter remove from the Retainer, if you lifters are old and have gone shiny on the flat section that
goes into the Retainer, there is a possible chance of the lifter's falling into the Sump area.

We have purchase 16 Pencil Magnets to help hold up the Lifter's, once we rotated the
cam a few times. By doing this we are pushing the Lifter's up into the Retainer, next we
insert the 16 Pencil magnets into the pushrod holes. Again we rotate the Cam to make
sure the lifter's are stuck to the Magnets.
Next we need to hold the Magnets by something and the next best thing was to use Household Clothes Pegs.

Just move the Magnet slowly to the side of wall of the Cylinder Head and using Clothes Pegs, as a clamp
to hold each one in position. Next rotate the Camshaft a few times again and watch to see
it any of the Magnets move, if so, it mean's that the lifter need's to be up higher into the Retainer
and readjustment of the Magnet to hold any lifter that might be not up higher enough in the Retainer.

This is the Roller Camshaft in the LS1 engine, it has a hollow center, to reduce weight.
Competition Cams are the only Company doing brand new billet's for the aftermarket grind specs.

Next need to Pre-lube Camshaft with required lube for Cam.

Time to remove the Old Camshaft, first remove the 4 bolts that hold the Camshaft end plate.
Next we need to find some longer bolts to remove the Old Cam, as the bolts provide leverage
to hold the Cam up while remove it over the Cam bearings.
Don't drop the Old Cam on the Cam Bearing while removing it, as you will damage the
Cam Bearing.

This is the Old Camshaft been remove take care with the Cam bearing.

Time to install the New Camshaft, take you time with it, and don't forget to screw in the longer
bolts to help with the last bit of the installation, as it get harder with the less leverage
everytime as you move the Cam past every Camshaft Bearing, the last one in the hardest
of all so, the longer your handle bolts are the easier it is for you.

I had to get a shot of these Excellent Guard Cover's.

To finish with the installation now, it a matter of the reversing the procedure, with this installation
we would have to adjust the Roller rocker's, but with the standard OEM type you bolts them down and that it.
Double CHECK you torque specification on all your bolts.
Also to make sure the Gasket's that are to be reused are not damage in anyway, if so, replace with NEW one's.

All instruction's are supplied with each Comp Cam with detailed diagram's on how to degree the Cam in.
Also you would need your car to learn the idling procedure.

Anytime the powertrain control module (PCM) or the battery is disconnected,
the PCM loses power, or the PCM is reprogrammed, the PCMs learned idle
position is lost.

Perform the following procedure in order to return the learned idle to the
correct position:-

Automatic Transmission

1. Turn OFF the ignition.
2.Restore the PCM battery feed, replace fuse 4.
3.Turn OFF the A/C controls.
4. Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
5.Start the engine.
6.Ensure that the engine coolant temperature is more than 80 Degrees.( Check
in Mode Up button).
7.Shift the transmission into Drive.
8.Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
9.Shift the transmission into Park.
10.Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
11.Turn OFF the engine for 30 seconds.

Manual Transmission

1.Turn OFF the ignition
2.Restore the PCM battery feed, replace Fuse 4.
3.Turn OFF the A/C controls.
4.Set the parking brake and block the drive wheels.
5.Place the transmission in Neutral.
6.Start the engine.
7.Ensure that the engine coolant temperature is more than 80 Degrees.( Check
in Mode Up button).
8.Allow the engine to idle for 5 minutes.
9.Turn OFF the engine for 30 seconds.

I hope we have help you a little better in understanding the interesting point's in installing a Cam in the
Australian Generation 3 LS1 Engine.
I would like to thank Plan B for donating his car for the Installation of this Cam Procedure.

Story by
Plan B and SIKLS1

Copyright © 2004
All rights reserved.
Revised: July 18, 2004.